** BRICK WALL CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION**

IT IS OUR OPINION /-\ MAKAY MASONRY
(VA, MD, DC)

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**every wall is unique in appearance and sometimes different practices are applied during construction.. in our Southeastern Virginia/Northeastern North Carolina region – most masonry homes – built post circa 1910 – are of ‘veneer’ or ‘facade’ construction.. typically the structure is lumber or ‘stick framed’ with a single wythe of brick ‘tied’ to it using 22 gauge corrugated sheet steel brick ties, cold-drawn steel eye and pintle ties, zinc galvanized adjustable slot-typed ties (dove tail, channel, etc.), or zinc galvanized adjustable stirrup/saddled two-part ties.. these ties are important for masonry veneer wall construction to not only form a ‘connection’ to the structure – but also provide the wall with greater lateral strength.. for lumber framed home construction we recommend zinc galvanized adjustable stirrup/saddled two-part ties tied to vertical lumber studs only – using at the minimum a 2” polymer coated deck screw – vice regional code – which is the use of 22 gauge corrugated sheet steel brick ties using a 1” roof nail connected to lumber sheathing.. we have found after repairing thousands of homes in these regions pre and post 1910 – that due to the high demand for homes in our area – and our fast growing communities – from then to now – and the lack of skilled masonry labor – that shortcuts were and sometimes still are being taken.. we have found during numerous repairs – ‘for speed’ – a lot of homes and buildings in our area have had brick or stone laid around them with no means of tying them to the structure – meaning only gravity is holding the masonry veneer in place.. this faulty practice is highly frowned upon among masons because the brick or stone prematurely cracks or leans away from the structure.. instead of a few hundred years of strong durable masonry facade – it normally will last around 30 years before repairs are necessary.. in our opinion since the founding of the International Building Code (IBC) in 1972; this way of ‘speedy construction’ for financial gain is unchecked and illegal.. it is our opinion that this is an infraction due to the mason using his knowledge and normally desolate workspace recklessly for monetary gain.. VA, MD, DC, NC, SC, TN, KY, IN, OH, WV, PA, NJ, NY, CT, RI, MA, VT, NH, ME – have sent various warning letters to their state honored masons over the years from their respective circuit judges – stating “we do know various styles and applications of
metal wall ties – for masonry veneer and facade;
stirrup/saddles – for butresses and pilasters;
and
control joints – for freeze/thaw expansion and contraction cracks;
have been in circulation throughout masons since the early 1800’s; if any evidence of practices such as these in discussion are applied to achieve faster end games it is considered highly illegal and pending on evidence, severity of damage, and monetary value of needed correction – considered a fineable and/or jailable offense with harshness depending on the respective states court ruling”.. we believe this particular situation must carry such fines and penalties because the only way to diagnose if a building has had its masonry veneer properly tied to the structure itself is by – hiring a third party inspector to be present during the masonry phases of construction, actually being present during the masonry phases of construction, removing sections of the wall in question to actually see the ties, the wall topples to see if there were ties, or if the wall is struck by something causing it to fall exposing the ties..

IT IS OUR OPINION ALONG WITH BRICKVENT /-\ MAKAY MASONRY (VA, MD, DC)
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WATER RESILIENT MASONRY CAVITY WALL; WEEPS; VENTS; VAPOR BARRIER; WEEP HOLE; BRICK;

Many homeowners first discover weep holes while observing the exterior brick veneer of their home. We get questions like these…Did the bricklayer forget to fill these holes in the bottom of my house? Can’t mice and insects enter through these openings? Can you fill them in for me?
Your bricklayer did NOT forget to put mortar in between some of the brick along the bottom of your house. These holes are there for a reason. Whether or not they are serving their intended purpose is another question.
Brick is in no way waterproof. As a matter of fact, because brick (and stone) is a porous material, it actually behaves much like a sponge. During a rain event, the masonry wall absorbs a tremendous amount of water and stores it.

The weep hole is designed for two purposes. 1. It provides an opening to allow water to drain out through the bottom of the wall. 2. It is intended to allow ventilating air to enter behind the wall to help dry the structure.

Weep holes do have some serious drawbacks though. Varying according to local codes, typically these 3/8” openings are spaced apart every 24″or 32″along the bottom of the wall. These openings are equivalent to a tiny sized welcome mat and open door, large enough to allow mice, roaches and other pests to enter the structure of the house.
Another serious drawback of weep holes is the lack of adequate ventilation.

Some modern homes are being built more air-tight than ever. In the past, moisture was allowed to move freely from the interior of the home to the exterior and vice versa. This provided a ‘water resilient masonry cavity wall’ and a ‘natural vapor barrier’ allowing the structure to ‘breathe’. Some modern homes have lost this ability and moisture that enters through the outer masonry wall can become trapped. This can lead to disastrous consequences such as mold, spalling and deterioration of the masonry structure itself.

The home industry has attempted to address the problem through the installation of weep holes. The problem is that in relation to the overall size of a masonry wall these small opening cannot provide the ventilation needed.
Three things you can do… 1. You can install weep inserts into your existing weep holes (For more info on weep inserts visit brickvent.net). 2. If you are experienced with moisture problems in your home BrickVents can be installed along with the application of a siloxane water-proofer. This will help, if not solve, many moisture problems by keeping the majority of water out and allowing the wall to expel the rest through proper ventilation.  3. Before building a new home, explore the possibility of installing BrickVents.

 

 

BRICK REPAIR